TRANSFIGURATION
Saturday 14, December 2002

Tonight, as I write, there is one of the great moments of Venezuelan history. Not for its direct implications but for it's grandeur.

Today is the 12th day (!!!) of the "paro" or general strike. The oil industry is pretty much shut up. Gas supply is irregular and unsafe as the military has been trying to provide gas in old trucks and without appropriate control. Thus you do not know for sure if you are getting unleaded or leaded gas. And how clean of sludge that gas is (think injection engines).

Some major food staples are running low. The PAN brand corn flour, the best known brand in Venezuela, is out in many areas, including San Felipe, though some brands still supply this most essential ingredient of the emblematic staple in the Venezuelan diet, the "Arepa" our own corn cake version. Beer is running low in some areas which have started rationing it! Fresh produce is for those that live close enough to producing areas. Fresh milk is out everywhere, not too bad since 80% of milk consumption is powder milk. Beef is also running low and out in some areas. Chicken is still present everywhere, but for how long. Etc... We are still overall OK but in a few days some areas might reach critical point in food supplies. Although most shops have reopened, big shopping centers remain closed, franchises are closed (2 weeks without Mac Donald!). And all evidence points out that Christmas shopping is not taking place except for the Chavista sector. That is, people like myself might go out and shop for food or for work items, but not for clothes, shoes, presents, etc... And grocery stores open only 4 hours a day, banks 3 hours (in spite of an organized campaign again banks from the government). In a way the "paro" in its practical aspect is over since the country is back to work, albeit at the minimum speed possible, and slowly and inexorably reaching a full stop as gas and supplies run out. The "paro" is maintained in more than 80% of the production sector, so commerce is doomed anyway.

While the "paro" progresses, Caracas has been making almost daily rallies and marches. Amazingly people do not seem to tire. And even to garner further strength. Even the provinces wake up from their lethargy and take a more active anti Chavez attitude with more significant marches and rallies.

Today is an apotheosis.

The opposition has called in Caracas a total of 6 marches from different points of the city, including two from Chavistas erstwhile strongholds. All afternoon was spent monitoring the progress of these marches, cheered by crowds watching by (mostly elderly and children). Around 5-6 PM the marches started to converge on the Autopista Fajardo, the main highway through Caracas, in front of the Plaza Altamira exchange. As I type we are treated to night views of almost hallucinating beauty: perhaps 4 or 5 miles tightly packed with people waving what is really, really, a sea of the colorful Venezuelan flag. From my San Felipe abode I get goose bumps. Most of the country has tuned up to the march, and whomever I called has it at least in background. It is now 8:30 and people are still there. Trying to count a 6 lane highway full of people, all the edges tightly packed, etc, is impossible. 1? 2? million people? I do not have an historical reference. The only time I have seen such an impressive rally of people was when France won the World soccer cup, 4 years ago, when Paris filled up the Champ Elysees.

I really do not know what will happen know. It is becoming difficult to imagine what else of nonviolence we can come up with. Perhaps half of Caracas marched or watched on side walks today. All these people are only from Caracas as gas shortages have limited people from adjoining areas access to Caracas. Chavez gave a pitiful performance yesterday to Jorge Gestoso, top anchor for CNN Spanish version. Gestoso clearly had trouble containing himself in front of Chavez when this one was claiming that he was controlling the situation and that the "paro" had miserably failed. And I spare you all the sordid details of what the governement is trying to do to cover its failure.

We'll see.

I am getting back to the TV.